I have been trying to understand the concept of terme in Italy for several years now. In the past, I have visited a few hotels and spas that feature pools filled with mineral-rich waters from the earth. However, I found the experience to be unfulfilling as the water was often lukewarm and the massages felt unsatisfying. Additionally, the dinner options at these establishments were often mediocre, with one even serving fake grilled shrimp. Despite my experiences, I couldn’t shake the feeling that there was something missing.

I realized that the Etruscans and Romans harnessed the healing powers of thermal waters enriched with calcium, magnesium, fluorine and sulfur, and visits to terme were an important part of their health regimen. In fact, the word ‘spa’ comes from a Roman tradition, ‘salum per aquam,’ which means ‘health through water.’ However, I didn’t know that in modern times, visits to the terme were widely prescribed by doctors in Italy. The treatments were heavily discounted and the state-run facilities were low quality, and the clientele mainly comprised of the elderly hoping to cure specific ailments.

Several decades ago, private resorts offering spa services sprang up in Tuscan towns such as Montecatini, Chianciano, and Rapolano. These resorts were popular among Italians who would go there on weekends and holidays to relax and unwind, taking advantage of discounted package deals. However, over time, the quality of these resorts has varied dramatically. Many of these places are now comprised of indoor and outdoor pools filled with mineral-rich waters of varying temperatures. The water may appear slightly opaque or the pool bottom may feel slimy and rubbery. Visitors typically spend 15-20 minutes in the water, allowing the minerals to work their magic before relaxing on a lounge chair in between soaks. Amenities such as locker rooms, steam baths, and saunas are often available, particularly if there is a spa on-site. Day rates at the average terme range from 10 to 20 euros, and visitors are typically required to bring their own swim caps, flip flops, towels, and shampoo.

My advice for visiting a terme, or spa, in Italy is to go for the best. Rather than settling for low-quality, overcrowded facilities, consider spending a bit more to visit a luxurious resort or complex. These can often be visited for the day at a cost similar to a nice meal in Florence. Two personal favorites of mine are located in southern Tuscany, in an area where the thermal waters are particularly potent. One of these is the village of San Casciano dei Bagni, known for its thermal springs and breathtaking panoramic views. The other is Fonteverde, a beautiful 19th century Medici palace with thermal pools surrounded by spectacular views.

At Fonteverde, a stunning 19th century Medici palace built around a productive thermal spring, guests can enjoy one of the most awe-inspiring views in Tuscany while taking a dip in the warm thermal pools. The palace’s sumptuous interior, featuring original oil portraits and deep red and green hues, houses over 100 spa treatments which must be booked in advance. The author recommends the Bioaquam circuit which offers targeted jets that relieve tension, improve circulation, and exfoliate the skin. The cost is reasonable, with a weekday rate of 19 euro and a weekend rate of 27 euro, and guests can enjoy a formal lunch or a snack at the poolside café in their bathrobe.

If you’re looking for a relaxing and rejuvenating experience in Italy, visiting a terme, or spa, is a must. For years, I have been trying to understand the terme culture in Italy, and I have visited a few known for their combination hotel/spas in the past. However, I found that the lukewarm water and mediocre massages left something to be desired.

What I didn’t realize until I started researching this topic is that in modern times, visits to the terme were widely prescribed by doctors in Italy. The state-run facilities were of low quality and the clientele mainly comprised of the elderly hoping to cure specific ailments. However, private resorts have sprung up in Tuscan towns like Montecatini, Chianciano and Rapolano, and these offer a more luxurious spa experience.

My advice is to go for the best when it comes to terme. You can even visit the most luxurious resorts and complexes just for the day at not much more than the cost of a nice lunch or dinner in Florence. My two personal favorites are in southern Tuscany, in an area where the waters rising from deep below the now dormant volcano, Monte Amiata, are particularly potent.

One such spa is the Adler Thermae, located in the quaint village of Bagno Vignoni. This resort, which opened in 2004, is in complete harmony with its natural surroundings and offers an array of outdoor pools, steam baths, and saunas. However, access is limited to protect the experience of hotel guests and it is not cheap, with an entry fee of 50 euro and the need to book one treatment.

Whether you’re there for only a few hours or several nights, visiting a terme is a wonderful opportunity to relax, re-center, and break the rhythms of daily life. It’s a gift to your body and soul and an opportunity to indulge in the pleasures of life, Italy style.